Tanzania Email Travelogue Fall 2011
Below are emails written by Ruth and Anne during their FALL 2011 trip to Tanzania. This breaks with their usual tradition of going to Tanzania in the spring but gives them the opportunity to see the country in the dry season. Emails will be updated as they become available. Later in the year a slideshow will be produced combining these emails with photos of the trip. NEWEST EMAILS APPEAR AT THE BOTTOM! last post Feb 2, 2011
See the previous year's slidesshows on the Book Box Travels page
Nov 28, Kwaheri (Goodbye) Tanzania!
ANNE writes:
We are hours away from leaving Tanzania. There’s a sense of relief and gratitude that we’ve made it this far. I’m spending the interminable wait at Julius Nyerere International quietly reflecting on some of our recent experiences and the people we have had the privilege to meet and work with.
A week ago we attended the Sunday “mnada” – a large market with a celebratory atmosphere where villagers from near and afar come to buy or sell local goods and foreign items that have travelled great distances. Colourful displays of produce piled on the ground, bubbling vats of oil cooking potatoes and mandizis (doughnuts), dripping slabs of raw indistinguishable meat hanging from hooks, severed pigs’ heads staring up at prospective buyers, kanagas (pieces of cloth) hanging in tiers forming a bright mosaic of African patterns , mountains of used clothing discarded by the west but treasured here and pombe (homemade beer) brewing on the periphery of this vibrant pulsating scene. Intermingled among the intense act of doing business families, friends and neighbours visit and enjoy the convivial spirit of the monthly mnada.
Last Friday, the day after the performance of the play, was the official opening of Luhunga Secondary’s maktaba (library) built by the African Book Box Society. The DED (Deputy of District Education) was the MOST honoured guest. Ruth and I were honoured guests also. Although he had to drive for several hours everything hinged on his appearance. Tanzanians are playful and light hearted about their lack of adherence to time schedules. Everything was ready for his 11:30 appearance. The stage made with roughly split logs was festively decorated with the head table covered in white cloth and bouquets of artificial flowers. Four hundred students sitting in semi curricular rows were patiently waiting his arrival. After several hours restlessness and hunger was seeping into the crowd. FINALLY at 4:00 the DED drove up in front of a throng of very relieved students. At home this would have been a recipe for disaster but not in Tanzania. Although this was taking “Tanzanian time” to the extreme everyone was instantly revitalized. A group of elders with large bells attached to their ankles performed a welcoming dance. The library ribbon cutting ceremony commenced followed by a tour of the amazing lab created by Peter, the Peace Corp worker. Students were demonstrating experiments using only bits and pieces of material found in their environment, an exciting example of ingenuity. Now it was time for the honoured guests to take their places on the stage. Drumming, traditional songs and dances were performed followed by many speeches. Ruth and I kept ours to a few sentences only and then the DED spoke. This distinguished professorial looking gentleman wearing a Mandela styled shirt was a charismatic speaker. His passionate speech was long but was sprinkled with humour, personal stories, wisdom, a rallying call for more students to take an increased interest in science and encouragement to use the library to explore the world. Importantly he went to great lengths to explain his lateness – a teacher’s tragic death and attending his funeral. All the speeches, except the few words Ruth and I spoke, were in Kiswahili. Mr. Msaba, the deputy headmaster, was our designated translator. He took his job very seriously, so seriously that he was unaware that he embraced Ruth’s personal space and had moved almost completely onto her chair. His gesticulating hands were centimeters from her very still chest. She kept trying to unobtrusively signal to me to do something about it but we were on show and I was hemmed in by a school board official on my other side. Mr. Msaba was leaning over Ruth and peering intently into my eyes to ensure I was understanding every word of his translation. It was an epic effort but 25 minutes later Ruth and I couldn’t hold it in any longer. Taking advantage of laughter amongst the audience both of us released a loud yelp and then quickly pulled ourselves together! A meal of beans and rice at school and a ride home in the dark under a starry Mufindi night brought an end to a full and interesting day.
Akida’s story. This young man works for the NGO tutoring orphans, supervising physio exercises for a disable orphan, investigating vulnerable families desperately needing assistance from Dr. Leena or home based care workers and translating for visiting volunteers in a variety of situations. Several years ago when Akida graduated from elementary school he wanted to build a stronger foundation for his life. That meant continuing his education. His father who now had another wife and family was not supportive and wanted Akida to work in the family shamba growing maize. Dismayed, Akida asked his mother for help. From a secretive place in the dirt floor of their hut she dug up her savings and handed Akida 5,000 shillings ($3.50). Walking barefoot away from his village he carried a small table, a cup, a bowl, a spoon. He was ready to begin his secondary school education miles away from his home. With the help of the NGO Akida has now completed his fourth year of high school and is waiting for his exam results before making a decision about his future which seems to be leaning in the direction of physiotherapy or social work.
The Ukumbi or community hall built by the African Book Box Society has been a focal point for celebrations and seminars dealing with a wide range of topics centered around health and education issues, agricultural methods, job fairs, income generating projects, female empowerment, monthly gatherings for grandmothers and grandfathers. Recently a local pastor and his wife conducted a marriage seminar with 20 couples. Splitting the couples into gender based groups, the “action of marriage” was frankly discussed. The importance of speaking “sweet words” to your spouse beginning at dawn and ending at dusk was demonstrated how it strengthens and enriches a marriage. This worthwhile seminar was a very new experience for all.
As another visit to Mufindi draws to a close it is always difficult to say goodbye to people who have become part of our extended Tanzania family. Geoff and Vicky Fox, the founders of the NGO whose inspired vision is improving life for so many in Mufindi. Geoff Knight and Jenny Peck, the dedicated capable managers who care deeply about the issues and are working closely with Tanzanians to make significant differences in people’s lives. Dr. Leena Parasen who has compassionately and skillfully assisted Tanzanians for over 30 years. Yusto Chumi, Igoda’s gifted librarian and teacher. Upendo who performs culinary magic and spreads love and good cheer at the volunteer house. Titus and Mama Ivan work tirelessly organizing events at the community hall. Mama Sila, the head basket weaver inspires and helps other women improve their standard of living. Maria, an NGO home care worker who is building a home to take in orphans in her village. The house mothers at the orphanage work hard to create a caring home environment for the 55 orphans.
Each year our extended family grows.
Thank you for your emails. I appreciate the kind words of encouragement and support from my family and friends at home.
See you soon.
Much love,
Anne
Nov 22, Performance Day at the Ukumbi
ANNE writes:
A hot sunny Mufindi morning, long treks over hilly landscapes, complexities of Tanzanian time resulting in extremely early and extremely late students, large pots of beans and rice bubbling on outdoor fires and excited actors – the components of performance day.
The frequently changing date for Luhunga Secondary’s presentation of “On the Road to Market” had finally been set by their Headmaster. Showtime was scheduled for Thursday at 10:30 a.m. in the Ukumbi (community hall). Ruth and I loaded the car with props – baskets, bucket, firewood, market items, kangas (colourful Tanzanian cloth), long imitation snake, character hats, chicken and pig costumes. As we neared the Ukumbi we passed a large group of Mdabulo high school students in green uniforms. An early start meant an extraordinarily early arrival at the Ukumbi. They had begun the long hilly 10 km. trek to the Ukumbi at 7:30 a.m. arriving an hour and a half before curtain call – their clocks obviously not adjusted to Tanzanian time!
At 10:00 a group of Madisi high school students in maroon and blue uniforms arrived followed by the 20 actors from Luhunga Secondary. Their eyes lit up when they saw their large painted mural depicting a village and market scene attached to a long wire with clothes pegs – our improvised method and second attempt at hanging their backdrop. They were excited and spontaneously huddled into small groups to practice behind closed doors in meeting rooms near the stage. Ruth and I were unaware that they were polishing and further developing their improvisations.
No one seemed perturbed that it was 10:30 and most of the 425 students from Luhunga, the host school, had not arrived. Ruth and I were the only ones with our knickers in a twist, a twist that would get increasingly tighter as time progressed! By 11:00 we were ready to send out a search party. At 11:30 a few more Luhunga students trickled in and finally by 11:45 all of the students had completed the long march and came in from the mid day sun. A loud beating of the drum signaled the beginning of the play. For 45 minutes these 20 first time actors entertained with humour, action, song and clever improvised dialogue creating more than a sprinkling of laughter from the audience. From the dress rehearsal on Sunday to the actual performance the play had grown to include new surprises and embellishments.
As the imagined curtain fell on the family returning from an adventurous day on the road to market the cast sang a “lala salama” (goodnight) song composed by one of the students in English and Kiswahili, their voices slowly becoming quieter until you could hear a pin drop. After taking their final bow the cast room erupted with “yes we did it” high fives, handshakes and hugs. Nabiot, the Luhunga teacher assigned to work with me, was thrilled with their performance and said their English had really improved. He also plans to teach English by having his students dramatize short stories.
Cast, audience, teachers and honoured guests were all rewarded with a healthy meal of beans, rice, spinach, sodas and chai. All morning the cooking mamas had been stoking large outdoor fires and cooking food for over 450 people. Once hungry stomachs had been satisfied it was time to make the long trek home. A 45 minute play had become an all day event – hopefully a day to remember!
With much love,
Anne
Nov 22, A Little Story
RUTH writes:
The Children’s Village, five modest individual houses built around the gradual incline of a hill descending into a valley where an underground stream emerges was the plan of Geoff Fox, head of the NGO. He envisaged an orphanage with the least institutional feeling possible. House mothers from the village and one house mother and father team (to look after young adolescents) were hired. Our newest wee mite to arrive is 21/2 months old, Shameera whose mother died of Aids complications during her birth. Now there are 54 children in the Children’s Village. A few are there while support is given to their families to rebuild collapsing houses or plant a shamba with maize or help with extreme health issues. Some are there because Dr. Leena has recognized signs of malnutrition or developmental delay due to hunger. One little three year old unable to walk has made remarkable progress after just a few months of healthy diet. Those fortunate children will return home to live parents or parent at a mutually agreed upon time.
The NGO tries continually to become a sustainable entity. Jenny had a wonderful idea to help lower orphanage costs. She has, with help from the children and adults built a garden of Eden shamba, garden in the valley below the orphan houses. It is an amazing 21/2 acres of food fed by the natural stream. There are tiny strawberries, lettuce, beans, spinach, cabbage, sicumo weekie and best of all for me beautiful fat orange carrots growing in great abundance. One climbs down wooden staked dirt stairs for a long way and then…….there it is food, almost enough for the whole orphanage.
I asked Jenny if I might rob the garden of a big bunch of carrots. Permission granted, Anne and I struggled down with a precious saved plastic bag and pulled up carrots to our hearts content. My mission was to tell the story of the ENORMOUS TURNIP now “The ENORMOUS CARROT” to the poverty stricken school, Ikaning’ombe. I made a huge chart and painted a huge bright orange carrot to pull up through a slit in the chart as the story evolved. Then I had to have an African old man, old woman, boy, and girl to go with the dog, cat and mouse all needed to pull and pull up the ENORMOUS carrot. We arrived at the school and I asked to tell a story to the Standard Six children. (they have had some English instruction). The classroom had nothing in it. A table was carried in, and rickety benches arrived. 60 children and their teacher filed in squeezing themselves onto the benches. Faces peering in the glassless windows were all watching as I stuck a pocket chart for the words and the garden scene on the crumbling wall surface with miraculous duct tape from Canadian Tire!! The children seemed mesmerized by the story and loved the repetition—so did their teacher! He slowly came up the aisle closer and closer to take part in the story just as the children did. There was delighted laughter and cheering when the carrot finally emerged with the final great PULL of the mighty mouse.
Then it was time to partake of the ENORMOUS CARROT itself. I was anxiously wishing for the biblical powers of the “loaves and fishes”! as I pulled out the huge bundle of carrots all tied together. On a clean piece of paper the chopping began. The teacher edged his way forward and announced “I need to eat some of this ENORMOUS carrot”!! Akida, my Tanzanian assistant began handing out the small pieces. The satisfying quiet munching of 60 carrot consumers could be heard. There was enough for each child. It was ENORMOUSLY satisfying to share these moments with the children. As we packed everything up to leave and were squeezing out the door I noticed one little fellow quietly peeling the remaining bits of duct tape off the wall. A treasure to be saved!
I think of Nelson Mandela’s words. “It is my wish that the voice of the storyteller may never die in Africa, that all the children of the world may experience the wonder of books.”
Thank-you so much Rafikis (friends)for your encouraging messages!
Love, Ruth
Nov 20, Habari za siku nyingi? What is the news of many days?
HI Everyone!
Thank-you SO much for your supportive emails In response to SOMEWHAT. I felt so encouraged! Habari za siku nyingi? What is the news of many days? Anne and I have been here for 29 days now. We are striving to make something from NOTHING as the people do here everyday. The meaning of living on less than a dollar a day takes so much effort, time, energy and ingenuity. One has to be resourceful too. My Dad used to say being resourceful was a sign of intelligence. We have vowed in the past to use our heads more! We constantly witness people carrying immense loads on their heads; several 6 foot long tree trunks of firewood, huge bundles of tea leaves, bananas, sacks of flour or astounding bundles of maize cobs AND at the same time as conducting business on their African cell phones. Posture perfect, animated conversations are carried on as they trudge barefooted up the hills. Heads have to preform dual service! Phones are cheap and preform many services including becoming a tiny torch(flashlight)and amazingly their banking is also often conducted through their unique cell phone system.
Anne brought a delightful homemade big book with her this year. She and board member, Liz Priestman used their ingenuity to create a delightful story of the old nursery rhyme “To market, to market to SELL a fat pig.”. Elaine Olafson, the artist in residence in Canada created appealing African images.
High school students must take all secondary subjects in English. Just like home teachers prefer to teach in highly populated areas. The poor rural villages are chronically short of teachers and when they do come they have large large classes that go all day long. Their pay is abysmal about $150.00 a month. Also Luhunga High School has a small solar lighting fixture in one area so students are expected to return in the dark to study from 7:00 PM to 10:00PM. Teachers supervise. Students tell us how grateful they are for this opportunity!! Anne and I try to enhance the acquisition of English in new and less rigid ways. Twenty students were chosen by the administration to work with us. We must not interfere with serious syllabus subjects. Yet Tanzanians are so polite that they give us their students and their English teacher as translator and allow us the freedom to pursue highly suspect methods. The story was to be their first ever attempt at theatre. Over several days the students felt comfortable enough to tell us that our version was not quite as exciting as they would like. SO……. thieves and snakes were added to make the proverbial trip to market more lively. The pig was allowed to speak for himself and to create endless havoc. Adolescents at work!!! The play has become much more interesting. Two days ago we introduced the brand new idea that the play needed scenery. Anne and I drove to the Fox Farm go-down and scrummaged for materials. Three years ago in the container sent from Canada there were several huge rolls of white paper donated by friends of Bob Landucci. It took three Tanzanians to carry out remaining one to our old Terrano. Next we were off to rob our Igoda primary library of paints and brushes sent from the UK. Then we slowly struggled up the impossible road back to the school. Most students had never seen paints before and almost none had ever used scissors. All of them set to work in wonder exploring a totally new medium. The magical energy lasted for more than three hours! “SOMETHING from NOTHING”. Water came from a long way in one bucket, paint containers were scrounged but there was not one single rag for cleaning up. It is hard to get used to NOTHING!
Today Anne and I returned to collect the dried completed mural. Ten meters of colorful African life on the way to market--it is simply fabulous. And…….skeptical teachers, did you hear all those new English words bandied about so confidently ?
We bundled everything back into the vehicle and set off for the Ukumbi (the hall with a stage). How to hang THE exquisite backdrop? Anne had brought 6 screw in hooks with her from home, Yusto gave us ONE precious nail, we borrowed a hammer from Fox Farm and collected a tangled bundle of thin malleable wire from the Igoda library. It took one hour to straighten the wire. Teetus and Mama Ivan helped. We dragged homemade tables over to function as a ladder. Climbing up we strung the wire from hook to hook. Next we put paper clips a foot apart along the top of the mural. They were each secured with precious Canadian duct tape on the back. With anxious hearts we all pulled together in what Anne would call the Kenyan Harambe spirit and the scenery was hung. What a sense of accomplishment!! We can hardly wait for the students to see their talent displayed. The performance for about 600 is on Thursday. We wish you could be here. Critics reviews will follow!
“SOMETHING from NOTHING”
We love you all patient readers!
Ruth and Anne
Nov 20, Mufindi
ANNE writes:
Greetings Family and Friends,
Yusto Chumi, Igoda’s librarian extraordinaire, interacts with people in a delightfully engaging and expressive manner. But he is also a master of the understated and frequently uses a favourite all encompassing word when asked about aspects of his life. “Yusto, you work so hard to make the library an enticing place for children to visit.” “Somewhat”, he replies quietly. “Whenever you read to children you make the story come alive!” “Somewhat”, he softly smiles. “Are you tired after a long day of teaching in the library or teaching English to hundreds of children?” “Somewhat”, he sighs. “I’m sure it takes a lot of energy and planning to get your shamba ready for planting?” “Somewhat.” “The orphans must really appreciate the good job you do repairing their bikes at the end of the day.” “Somewhat.” “Your English is so good, Yusto.” “Ah, I am somewhat bankrupt of words.” I dearly wish Mufindi was populated with more “somewhat” Yustos!
Ruth and I are more than somewhat pleased with our new used car, a white Suzuki something having four tires with reliable treads. “Little Angel” is emblazoned on the front windshield and resembles a hearse in appearance. Driving is no longer a bone shaking experience as it glides quite smoothly over the rutted, bumpy dirt roads. Increased size means we are often giving groups of children and mamas “lifties”. At times the two rows of back seats are crammed with happy faces and we quickly become a “dala dala” – an overstuffed Tanzanian mini bus. As we drive through the villages we’ve noticed that village life is in high gear as people labour from dawn to dusk making preparations before the rainy season. Plowed shambas ready for planting, bricks drying on sunbaked earth, framed brick houses waiting for bati (aluminum) roofs, large bundles of dried grass for thatch roof repairs, carpets of maize kernels drying in the sun and tea pickers harvesting community tea fields.
A few days ago Akida (a young man working for the NGO) and I returned to Ikaning’ombe village. It was a journey home as this was where he was brought up and where he went to school. Akida’s family is large as his father has several wives. When we entered the school grounds all the children gathered shyly around. I had brought a delightful “big book” my daughter, Katie, had made with her classes. With Akida translating we read “My Canada” to the children. Colourful child drawn pictures of orcas, mountains, tall forests, ferry boats and hockey players emerged from the pages of the Canadian book. You could hear a pin drop amongst the Grade 2 children, four to five to a desk. Then I explained that together we were going to make a big book called My Ikaning’ombe for the children in Canada. On large sheets of white paper I had prepared sentence starters such as, “Where I live I see (I hear, I can etc.)……, with Kiswahili written beneath. This was the brainstorming part of the lesson. Oh dear, 65 pairs of eyes just stared at me. Then finally one tentative hand went up and his whispered answer was recorded on the chart paper and then another and another until finally many little hands shot up wanting to share their thoughts about their village lives. “I see monkeys in the forest, chickens on the road, mama cooking by the fire, a goat eating mangoes, bananas growing.” Now it was time for them to record their thoughts. Pencils ranging in size from 1 to 4 inches appeared. They looked at the fresh clean pieces of paper I gave them and carefully wrote their sentences in Kiswahili. Drawing pictures to accompany their sentences was the next step. I had brought enough crayons for everyone to use. It took awhile for little fingers to unclench and for crayons and paper to connect. This was a new experience. None of these children had ever held a crayon before and having a variety of colours was initially overwhelming. Tiny tentative marks slowly began to appear on some of their papers. With a piece of paper each Akida and I demonstrated how to use crayons and encouraged them to be free and have fun! The children’s creativity began to flow as they became bolder with their use of colour and form. Their finished pictures are delightful and I know will be enjoyed and hopefully treasured by the classes in West Vancouver. I was more than somewhat pleased with the outcome of this simple lesson. Three teachers visited the classroom and sat around the teacher’s table surrounded with crayons experimenting with colour and shapes. They wanted their pictures to be included in the My Ikaning’ombe book. When I return home I will put together a big book comprised of their drawings and my photographs of their village and school. Hopefully it will be thought provoking and interesting for the children in West Vancouver to see the stark contrasts.
During my lesson groups of curious children from other classes silently peered through the windows and open door to listen and see what was taking place. Sadly there was not enough room for them in this sparse classroom. I was definitely not somewhat pleased with the state of their classroom. It’s like an earthquake zone – a hole the size of a small crater at the entrance, crumbling patches of concrete floor, broken windows covered with large wire screens and a zig zag crack from floor to ceiling letting daylight in through the back wall.
As we drove away calling “tutaonana tena” (see you again) I thought about the morning I had spent with teachers and students working and learning together in a school with so little. A very precious morning - somewhat!
See you soon,
Anne
Nov 12, "Somewhat" !
RUTH writes:
Jambo Everyone,
Each day Anne and I try to grasp the slippery understanding of rural village life in the Highlands of Mufindi. We ride a roller coaster of exhilaration to the depths of despair and back up to hopeful again. These feelings can occur nine times in one day!! In the company of Dr. Leena or Geoff and Jenny Knight, the NGO managers, whom we stole from Peace Corps, we are welcomed into the small brick huts that are the villagers homes. Often there is a wood fire burning on the dirt floor within.
Usually there are no windows so the interiors are a smoky velvet black. A wealthy person’s walls are make of kiln dried bricks, maybe two small windows and a much sought after “bati” rippled tin roof. A struggling villager might have a stick or twig frame with chinked mud or sun dried brick walls and a thatch roof with no windows. Smoke seeps slowly through the thatch creating a small white fog rising and hovering in wavey white lines above the roof. Yet despite such extreme poverty we see flowers; passionate fruit vines, cheery red geraniums, yellow and cream moonflowers and even wild roses growing beside the dusty ochre walls. The desire for a little spark of beauty must be universal. Usually there is a disorganized banana tree plant in the front yard too. Big green split leaves are dying off, sprouting, spreading out and best of all supporting large clusters of bright green bananas with their rather phallic wine colored flower hanging below.
It is the dry season here and the weather is a Canadian dream. It is chilly but clear in the blue-skied morning and by noon one is roasting in a short sleeve T-shirt . Evening is cool again and much to Anne’s disgust I still drift off to sleep in my down jacket (only because there is no heating in our volunteer quarters and I am a wimp!) Everywhere people are burning to clear plots and hacking through weeds with sturdy axe-like hoes called jembes in readiness for planting maize. Maize means survival! The plots are precise black rectangles or squares dotting the hills. We can’t understand how this geometric perfection is achieved because there is no discernable way to create the precise boundary lines. No water is available and the process remains a mystery to us. At night we see the fires glowing red orange trying to compete with the exquisite southern star crammed sky. Electricity is coming to the area in a year or so thanks to European Union funding. People are dreaming of TV! It is dark dark by 7:30PM. The changes will be remarkable.
A typical morning might start with a swift trip in the car down to the Fox farm house to commune with the beloved generator which creates our internet link. Emails from all of you are devoured.! It is NOT that Anne and I get tired of each other but…….24/7 doesn’t even occur with our beloved spouses at home! The generator putts away from 7:00 AM until 8:30 AM. For whatever reason the internet is not working at any other time of the day this year.
Back to Protea House(volunteer quarters) for breakfast. Then often it is off to Igoda school and the Maktaba(primary school library). We both look forward to meeting Mr. Yusto, the third and most delightful librarian to work for the NGO. He uses no whacking sticks even if he has classes of 60 or 70 or 80 or 90. Yusto worked hours and hours late at night with a kerosene lamp to acquire fluency in English. It is his third language after Kihehe and Kiswahili. When we compliment him on his gift with children and his strength as a teacher he always answers. “SOMEWHAT MAM” On this particular morning all the standard 2 children are studying , reading and looking at books about “deenosaurs”. At one point he checks with me to make sure no “deenosaurs” are currently roaming earth. I have heard him tell the children that Noah wouldn’t let them on the ark so they are all gone. “SOMEWHAT” I think!!
Next we are off to our current project at a school that I can’t spell. It means place without cows. Our old Terrano is challenged and groans slightly as we climb the high hills through the magical “ giant broccoli tree” rain forest. I spy vines of red gloriosa. The roads are dry but the moguls are permanent lurching bumps challenging suspension, tires and sixty-five year old backs. We drive along a spectacular escarpment knowing one mistake would send us tumbling down down. We beep the horn repeatedly to warn off any speeding pikipikis(Chinese motorcycles) knowing there is absolutely no room to pull over. We arrive at the school with no cows and enter the kindergarten. (I think Anne has sent photos.) 30 little Checka Cheya kindergarten children are sitting crowded on three rickety small benches. They have one Kiswahili chart on the wall to gaze at. On the dust deep floor we spy white hieroglyphics. Children claim their spot on the floor. Astoundingly they dip tiny morsels of chalk into scrunched old water bottles with a bit of muddy water inside. The wet white chalk sinks into three inches of dust allowing them to practice forming their alphabet letters while kneeling partly submerged and encased. No one owns a pencil or a piece of paper. The walls of the room are crumbling, flimsy white plaster is breaking off from chinked sun dried bricks. Ragged clothes, little black faces, hands and knees are all filthy yet shiny white smiles appear as they stare in fascination at our pale Wazungu(foreign) faces. We whisper shocked “Nzuri sanas”!(very good work) Meeting with the head teacher we promise locally made desks and refurbishing of walls and best of all a cement floor. Villagers have already hauled bags of sand, their contribution to the hoped for making of cement.
It is only 12:00 noon! The roller coaster continues. We are off to the CTC. The Care and Treatment Centre is where our new CD4 machine resides. It has tested over 800 people for Hiv/Aids and is saving lives today. Our Tanzanian technician is testing blood samples and explains the complexity of our $50,000. machine that Stephen Lewis helped us purchase at a $20,000 reduction in cost. People of all ages line the halls patiently waiting for life and death news. The sample we observe goes into the machine and a tiny white slip of paper emerges from the slit at the top. Test score 956! A healthy white cell count – GOOD news!
Each day is so full. “SOMEWHAT”.
Ruth
Nov 12, Mufindi
ANNE writes:
Hamjambo,
My Mufindi mornings begin with a view of the sun rising through the lingering smoke outlining distant hills in a hazy glow. This is the season when villagers begin preparations for replanting by burning sections of their land. Mufindi’s black nights are punctuated with large and small blazing fires. The mornings reveal scorched rectangular scars on distant and nearby hills, sometimes a bit too close for my Canadian comfort level although villagers seem very proficient with this slash and burn technique by keeping their fires contained. Apparently this was not the case last year when several fires got out of control and reached the tree line perimeters of individual plots. Last night on our way home we saw a group of small children playing near the still smoldering fires. They quickly scattered when I got out of the car to discourage them from their dangerous behaviour. Oh dear, I felt badly but it immediately brought to mind Dr. Leena’s descriptions of frequently burned children.
Our Mufindi days are full and varied and often involve a wide range of emotions. This week we visited Mwefu, a desperately poor village where progress occurs in very small increments – pole, pole (slowly, slowly). We’ve learned that every household has been affected by HIV. Last year our pictures of Mwefu school depicted many children learning in a classroom with a huge gaping back wall exposed to Mufindi’s elements -frosty temperatures in the winter months and heavy rains during the rainy season. It has taken almost a year but this wall is almost two thirds completed and the remaining sundried bricks piled against the school should be enough to finish the job. At Mwefu there are 4 teachers plus 2 volunteer teachers for 289 children. Over the years we have come to know 3 of their teachers who are concerned about the learning environment for Mwefu’s children. During a meeting in their makeshift staff room the Head Teacher told us it “pained his heart” to share his concerns about his school. There is a chronic need for additional classrooms. The new teacher housing has been without a roof for over a year and desperately needs aluminum sheeting to cover the roof before the rains come. New teachers assigned to Mwefu have left because adequate housing is not provided. This is a top priority and we will do what we can before returning home. The two volunteer teachers receive 10,000 shillings or $8.00 a month which the regular staff donates from their $120.00 monthly salary. Over the years the African Book Box has donated several boxes of Tanzanian curriculum books which now look very well used. Before leaving home I made a “big book” using previous photographs of Mwefu students depicting a day at their school with activities the children like to do. We went into each classroom and read the big book to them which they seemed to love as they saw photos of themselves greeting each other in the morning, reading, writing, singing, holding up large globes and keeping their school clean with hand made brooms. Laughter erupted when they saw the pages depicting simple conversation in Kiswahili between students. We left Mwefu with a lump in our throats and hearts and very determined to help.
This year Liz Priestman and I wrote a story called “On the Way to Market”. With Elaine Olafson’s captivating illustrations we made this into another big book to be read to large groups of students. It was going to form the basis of a play for a group of Luhunga high school students. After presenting the African version of the Princess and the Pea last year the words of an old bibi in the audience (grandmother) rang in my ears as she asked, “What was the purpose of this?” It just didn’t jive with her lived experiences! Our goal was to make this presentation more culturally relevant. It has truly been a harambee effort with so many pulling together to help make it a worthwhile project. This was a new experience for the 20 students we work with. Initially they were very shy but through drama games, working in small groups and knowing the story well it didn’t take long for them to find their voices as creative dialogue emerged. Their improvisations sparkle with freshness and humour! Rather than performing the play in Kiswahili these students are performing in English. This is challenging as it is their third language. Their tribal tongue, Kehehe (key-hay-hay) is their first language. Our after school practices take place in the new library built by the African Book Box. Last Sunday they made the 6 km. trek to the Ukumbi (community hall) to practice for the first time on the stage. It was delightful to experience their reactions and hopefully by this Thursday (showtime) their voices will reach to the back of the hall. They quickly devoured the sodas, fruit and biscuits Ruth and I provided at break time. Yesterday they began painting the background for the play. There isn’t a word in Kiswahili for background so I took them outside and asked them to describe what they saw in the distance - tea fields, shambas (farms), distant villages, the green hills of Mufindi. The painting process began on large sheets of paper. For most it was the first time they had ever held a paintbrush. With everyone working on various aspects of the backdrop they were focused, excited and delighted with their results. A magical classroom moment to be cherished!
Today is Saturday and we have planned a fairly low key day unlike last Saturday when we were in bustling Iringa town purchasing books for schools and crafts for our future fundraiser. Our goal is to try once again to access the internet as communication with home has been very sporadic more challenging then ever this year. The expletives cloud the air in Geoff’s farmhouse as we try and try again to connect. I have been jealous of Ruth as she has a “dongal” and I have been “dongaless”. But even her dongal hasn’t helped her to gain access. So with slowly acquired patience we will try again and hopefully connect with some of you.
The jacarandas are blooming and we’re enjoying the last warm rays of
the dry season.
Sending much love from Mufindi,
Anne
Oct 30, Our Visit with Blantina !
RUTH writes:
Hello Everyone,
My amazing cousin Catherine Winckler sent this message with me to Tanzania. I hope she won't mind my sharing!!
"Blantina,
Please accept this gift for you and your family. I saw pictures of your new home and my heart was so full of happiness. I see the new roof and know that the rain has stopped coming into your home. And that you have a place to enjoy for years to come. In the words you sent back to me you are thanking me.....and I must tell you this: It is you that has given me the gift. Your heart is so big that it stretches across the thousands of miles from your home to my home. We are now like sisters. When I think of you in my day to day life, I smile. I know that you work hard...and I work hard. I know that you take care of your family and I also take care of the people that work for me. But I know that you do everything you do with pain in your body. I do not have this pain and I think you are very brave and it inspires me. So I hope this little package will help you.
I thank God for bringing your story to me. I am so glad my relative Ruth is there to visit you and send this message of friendship.
Catherine"
Dear Catherine,
What a gift you gave to all of us! Anne and I asked Dr. Leena Passenen to take us to visit Blantina and her children. We parked along the edge of the dirt road in the village and walked down the short path to Blantina's new home. Her old decrepit house is gone. In its place is a makeshift chicken coup with lots of chickens scurrying about and lots of little yellow and white baby chicks. Blantina's new house is right behind it and perpendicular to the house is her separate tiny brick kitchen. She was standing behind her walker with Dora, her daughter. Her sparkling black eyes shone as she welcomed us with a big smile calling out Karibuni-Welcome. Blantina as you know is a tiny woman with osteogenesis imperfecta, susceptible to many bone fractures. We entered her house and there was a table with a precious white lace table cloth, a tiny bench and two very low wobbly wooden chairs. Blantina used her stick to position herself to sit on a little low stool.
Leena had brought another Finnish doctor and his daughter in law. We sat in a rough circle smiling at each other. Then Leena opened her computer. We had to wait a while and then Leena was able to show Blantina your photograph. Blantina watched and listened fixedly. Next Leena began to translate your poignant message, Catherine. Blantina absorbed every word but was completely silent. Dora, her daughter and Upendo her son had joined us too. I went over and knelt beside her and gave her the card with the shillings inside. I had taken the liberty of printing a simple message inside and signing your name. Blantina remained silent and then she told Leena in Swahili that she would like to pray. She stood and prayed in Swahili. It was a long prayer and I know that she asked God to give you a long life surrounded by angels to care for you. Then she sat quietly for a while in contemplation. Then Blantina made an announcement. First of all she would like 300,000 shillings to go to pay her children's current and future secondary school fees with new uniforms as needed. Next she would like to use the remaining 120,000 shillings to start a business so she could always be independent . She has been worrying and worrying about all three of them being HIV positive. Now her first purchase will be for a " most healthy pig"! She told us the whole village will pay for portions of pork meat and the pig will be a female to generate future income! It was an astounding experience sitting amidst stone age poverty receiving your message of hope via the advanced technology of the shiny silver computer. Blantina wanted her new riches to be given to Susan Vinton's Mission holding bank. It could tempt people to steal if they knew such riches were being kept in her new house. Finally Blantina, using her stick as a crutch came to each one of us wrapping her arms around us in a hug, her black eyes sparkling with joy. We hugged this fragile indomitable woman back carefully!
Three hundred Canadian dollars will change three Tanzanian lives, Catherine.
Much love,
Ruth
P.S. I have wonderful photos-they will come eventually
Oct. 27, Mufundi
ANNE writes:
Hello Everyone,
Today we’re on a long winding road to the distant village of Ikaning’ombe, literally meaning a village without cows. The scenery was stunning as we drove along a very steep narrow embankment with sweeping views of green acres of tea, bananas, maize and neighbouring villages. Before approaching Ikaning’ombe we drove through a dense forest resembling thick stalks of broccoli. Ikaning’ombe Primary is situated at the end of a long avenue of trees. The Head Teacher and his Deputy, a polio victim using a large pole to assist his walking, welcomed us.
During a brief visit to this school last year when Ruth and I dropped off boxes of Tanzanian curriculum books and African storybooks we were determined to make this school a priority after seeing the appalling decay and dilapidated state of their classrooms. Rough desks are placed between gaping crater like holes on classroom floors. From faded and pock marked walls hang old maps of the world. We immediately went into” fix it” overdrive and thought numerous bags of cement, buckets of paint and book shelves could give this school a much needed boost and facelift. Ikaning’ombe has dedicated teachers who make the most with what is available. Our NGO (nongovernmental organization) has hired several previous students from Ikaning’ombe . They are dedicated capable young people who are developing leadership roles within their communities and within the NGO.
Our first goal was to help transform the kindergarten into an inviting place for young children to learn. There is much work to be done. The kindergarten is a separate structure. Sunlight streams through open glassless windows to reveal crumbling cement covering the brick walls. Broken desks are placed on the uneven dusty dirt floor. A three legged teacher’s table is propped up in one corner. The faded pock marked blackboard has been painted on the rough wall. The only splash of colour is the Kiswahili phonics chart we gave last year.
As we entered the classroom 30 wide eyed 5 year olds shyly stared up at us. They must have wondered who these strange wazungus (foreigners) were. Although their teacher was not yet in the classroom they seemed to be waiting in quiet anticipation. When Ruth and I were walking around their classroom with Geoff Knight (NGO manager) and the Head Teacher we noticed groups of letters and numbers printed on the dirt floor. The children showed us how the dirt floor is their palette and their little fingers their writing utensil. Some children had small pieces of white chalk which they dipped in a bucket of water before writing. Their samples of beginning writing carefully copied from the chart and drawn on the dirt floor reminded me of prehistoric markings on cave walls. With absolutely no school supplies or teaching materials available it was an ingenious way for young children to begin their early reading and writing experiences. BUT we knew it could be better, a lot better. Many of the rural schools in the district of Mufindi at least have paper and pencils. We left with a growing shopping list of school supplies and books. Bags of cement for the floor and walls were on the way. New desks have been built and will soon be delivered. In the meantime Ruth and I will visit the “gowdown” (NGO’s warehouse) to retrieve school supplies and books that have arrived from a recent UK container. Ikaning’ombe’s teachers have asked for help and with them we will work together to make their school a more enticing learning environment for children.
There is part of me that wants to send out a message “calling all Victoria teachers!” Help us raise awareness. Please fundraise for schools that have almost nothing. Adopt a class! I know (although I’m not convinced) we can’t help every village school in this district but the more that receive assistance the better it is for students and their teachers. This will get done – pole, pole (slowly, slowly)!
Thinking of you. Much love,
Anne
Oct 26, 2011, Mufindi
RUTH writes:
Hi Everyone,
Anne and I are here in Mufindi once again. We are delighted to be back! We are having huge difficulties with the internet here. I purchased a "dongal" in Dar es Salaam. It is helping BUT it is still hard to explain to Don!!(hee hee). Each day here is crammed with experiences. We attended the standard 7 graduation. 1,000 people attended. The students preformed dances, sang songs and read poetry for -------four hours. Next we ate a meal consisting of pilau, spinach, sliced cooked onions and stewed pork and pieces of very old chickens all with our bare HANDS. Next there was a soccer game and a dance. Everyone of all age levels were there. Mahafali--graduation, a wonderful cultural celebration. Our Charity (thanks to all of you) received generous heartfelt thanks. They spoke of the library, books, our beloved "Meal in a Mug" and the help with the community hall. Small charities can make a dent in the deep poverty here.
We are planning much longer news but things are precarious tonight!
Pole sana (sorry)
Ruth
Oct 25, 2011, Mufindi
ANNE writes:
Dear Family and Friends,
It was Graduation Day at Igoda Primary, our first full day in Mufindi. At least 1000 people converged on the Ukumbi (Community Hall) to celebrate the completion of primary (elementary) school for the Standard (Grade) 7’s. Proud grandparents, parents, aunts, uncles and young children were dressed in their very best clothes as they watched under the midday sun a marching and drumming routine performed by Igoda students in their blue, white and green uniforms. The doors of the Ukumbi opened and people flooded into the hall decorated with pine branches, banana leaves, Christmas garlands, draped cloth, balloons
and banners. With the steady hum of the generator in the background a large ghetto blaster played loud disco music as people waited in anticipation for the ceremony to begin. Ruth and I, Geoff and Jenny (NGO managers), village leaders, village school committee and the Mufindi District Education Officer were the honoured guests. We filed in to the beat of the music and took our place on a fully decorated stage. The 3 ½ hour celebration began as the MC, Igoda’s hip teacher, introduced the honoured guests. Groups of students entered the hall, each time singing a “we are entering song” before performing their songs, dances, poems, skits and raps. Speeches from honoured guests (thankfully not us) were interspersed throughout the performances. Just like home, the chickachaya (kindergarten) children stole the show as they shyly came in with long narrow strips of paper reading their
poems of praise to the graduating students. The formal celebration culminated in the District Education Officer giving her much
anticipated speech announcing that Igoda Primary would get more teachers which would reduce the average class size of approximately 70 students. Then it was time for the Standard 7’s to receive their certificates. Before this occurred a line of students acting as a “human shield” blocked a space in front of the stage. This would prevent a stampede of parents from rushing up as they presented their graduates with colourfully wrapped boxes. Fortunate graduates would receive clothes and candy in their boxes. Students from very poor families would perhaps receive 500 shillings (less than 50 cents) or in a few cases an empty decorated box. As students were called to the stage to receive their certificates parents ran up placing tinsel and flower garlands around their necks with the result that some resembled brightly decorated Christmas trees. It was a touching and very proud moment for students and their families, bringing a perfect closure to the ceremony.
The celebration was far from over! Everyone except the Standard 7 students moved outside where Igoda’s students where served a dinner of rice and beans. The transformed Standard 7 classroom became the VIP room for honoured guests where we were served rice, pilau, cooked spinach and cabbage, pork stew and chicken (chickens that must have run for miles before being caught). Honoured guests dug into their delicious dinner with their hands. In our case, with hesitant hands! I was furtively looking at my dinner companions to see if there was an efficient or secret way of doing this. After the dinner I’ m sure you could spot where the wazungus (foreigners) sat as there would have been granules of rice scattered on the floor.
It was 6:00 p.m. and time to return home. As we left Igoda school two teams dressed in red and saffron yellow were playing soccer on the field and strains of disco music could be heard as the Standard 7’s enjoyed a dance in the community hall. As we loaded our car a villager came up to Geoff pointing out our dubious looking front tire. “No problem,” said Geoff! Off we went but we only got as far as the bottom of the steep hill a kilometer from the school. We had four more kilometers to go. A flat tire and no jack! Fortunately one of the few cars existing in the area drove by and stopped to help. In the meantime Dr. Leena who is staying with us in the volunteer house was phoned and came to our rescue. We left the men to change the tire and as we drove away Leena slipped in a tape and strains of Leonard Cohen “Hallelujah” played as we drove over the hills of Mufindi home. A perfect ending to an extraordinary day!
Much love,
Anne
Oct 24, 2011, Mufindi
ANNE writes:
Dear Family and Friends,
We’re back and it almost seems like we’ve never been away! Tanzania definitely feels like a second home. Although I find Dar fascinating (exotic plant life, diversity of activity and the Indian Ocean) I wouldn’t ever want to call it home. Unlike Mufindi, it’s stifling climate isn’t Canadian friendly. Geoff Fox’s son, Alexander, and his wife Jeannie, were very kind and helped us over a few hurdles. Alexander has negotiated a new used car for us. It’s a white Suzuki 4wheel drive called “Little Angel” (Malaika Kidogo). It’s most noteable feature are the black net sparkling curtains – a woman’s assessment, I know! I’m sure it has other worthy and hopefully durable features. However “Little Angel” has not been released from customs and we’ve been told it will take a week for this to occur. But we’ve also been advised to double the time. Alexander is passionate about cars and big machinery but also he and Jeannie are dog lovers extraordinaire! With trepidation we knocked on their door and were greeted by 6 enthusiastic dogs – 2 dobermans, 1 wolfhound, 2 Jack Russells and a fluffy specimen. Ruth was not thrilled to be reunited with Hacksaw, the skirt shredder!
During four days in Dar es Salaam’s sweltering chaos we managed to accomplish a few goals with a mixed degree of success. Our first goal was to visit the Canadian High Commission. We showed up at this Canadian fortress with a mission but without an appointment. No problem, luck was on our side! Our reason for being there was to gain information from our High Commission about the present and urgent health crisis in Tanzania – the almost total lack of reagents to operate the CD4 machines – life saving machines that determine people’s blood count level. With a blood count of 300 or below WHO recommends that people need to be on ARV’s (anti retroviral drugs) for HIV/AIDS. We had the privilege of meeting with Dr. Joseph Komwihangiro, a Tanzanian who is responsible for the HIV/AIDS portfolio for the Canadian High Commission. We spent a very informative hour with him as he detailed the background to this national crisis and the possible solutions. Tanzania, Ethiopia and Democratic Republic of the Congo have received the most funding for HIV from the Global Fund. In 2008 President Kikwete encouraged Tanzanians to be tested for HIV. Without consulting with the Global fund 5 million people responded. This was a positive development but their store of reagents was seriously depleted and nothing was done about it. Now it has reached a crisis level. Thousands of people are not being tested and therefore not able to be treated. The Global Fund has red flagged Tanzania and may not renew funding which leaves it up to individual donor nations, foundations and charities. 95% of Tanzania’s funding for HIV/AIDS comes from other countries and agencies. It’s a dire situation calling for an immediate response with international agencies collaborating with the Tanzanian government.
On Monday morning our sights were set on Mufindi as we flew to Ngwazi’s grassy airstrip in the highlands where Geoff and Vicky Fox, the NGO’s orginators, were there to meet us. They had had to deal with a “puncture” on the way to the airstrip and told us to keep our fingers crossed as the spare tire had a slow leak! My fingers and toes were crossed for the hour’s journey back to their farm at Highland Lodge. Full-blown leak thankfully evaded.
Our welcome back to Mufindi was full of indelible heartwarming images– vigorous handshaking, hugging, broad smiles, squeals of delight and small children respectfully touching our heads as people came to greet us. We are so excited to be here! Geoff and Jenny took us on a walkabout to the NGO’s “village within a village” – a stone’s throw from Protea Point, the volunteer’s house where we reside. Down a gently sloping narrow valley a lush 2 acre market garden has been planted by village women with support from the NGO. A stream meanders through the middle. Raised beds of vegetables, herbs and 1 acre of strawberries are producing all the vegetables required for the orphanage (Children’s village), NGO workers and volunteers. A young orchard with fruit trees and avocados is adjacent to this flourishing market garden. The road to sustainability for the Children’s Village is within the NGO’s grasp.
Then we trudged up the hill to the Children’s Village where children of all ages were playing outside stretching out the last minutes of sunlight. House mothers calling children for bath time and a delightful glimpse through the window of a child dancing in front of a mirror. As the sun set over the orphanage babies and toddlers were put to bed, young children were listening to their bedtime stories and in another house older children were doing homework and receiving math tutoring. The Children’s Village had settled in for the evening while Ruth and I walked back beneath a starry sky to the volunteer house with our heads full of heartwarming images of our return to Mufindi.
Lala salama – Goodnight and much love,
Anne
Oct 23, 2011, A Few Days in Dar es Salaam
RUTH writes:
Hello Family !!
Our first job since being in Dar has been to try and see people at the Canadian High Commission. Elizabeth May, our ONLY Green party member wrote a letter introducing Anne and me to Mr. Robert Orr, the high commissioner. We were hoping he might be Bobby Orr !!! NOT! Usually getting to talk to someone is hard work and we are shuffled off to sign the book registering for the length of our stay in Tanzania and then we are sort of encouraged to leave. This year with our letter and our new brochure we ended up meeting with two wonderful people at the embassy. The first Mary Mgaya, is the project officer in charge of charities and the second Dr. Joseph Komwihangiro, Is head of Aids and he really helped us understand why there are no reagents for Aids testing in the entire country. That really impacts on our little charity as we now are expecting about 2,000 people to be coming to our clinic for testing. Without testing the doctors cannot tell if the people carry the virus and for others they need to test for the white cell count to know the right level of anti retroviral medicines to give them. A normal person's level is 800 to 1000 white cells, a person with Aids starts ARV's here at 250. People can quickly succumb and die without the right level of medication. The president of Tanzania, Jayaya Kikwete, spontaneously announced that all people in Tanzania could be tested for AIDS for free. 5,000,000 people showed up for testing. No one in the country expected that!! It used up all the money that donors had sent to purchase the reagents. The results also showed that the Iringa area(where we go) has the second highest HIV/Aids concentration in the country 14.7% in 2008. It has gone up since. AND we believe believe it is much higher where we are! Tanzania only provides 5% of the money to fight Aids. All the rest comes from foreign donors-mainly The National Global Fund in Geneva and Pepfar in the USA. All the reagents were used up and a huge backlog was created. The donors demand accountability and have red flagged the whole country. Now Tanzania has only one more chance to be accountable or they could lose all funding. Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Democratic Republic of the Congo received the most donor funding in the past. It is a national crisis.
We are learning as much as we can because we don't want any more young Felistas to die. We can't solve the whole countries problems for sure. But we want to know how to keep our clinic functioning with reagents.
Heavy stuff !! We are SO fortunate in Canada.
Ruth
